Western PA Distillery Delights Visitors with Hand-Crafted Fancy Moonshine
All I knew about moonshine and the people who made it came from
old movies and television shows—black and white images that conveyed the
general idea that making strong illegal liquor in odd-looking secret copper
contraptions and then transporting it to customers over remote back roads in
beat up souped-up sedans was dangerous work done only by poor, rumpled, cranky
mountain people.
Oh sure, I may have had a snort of a clear smelly liquid at
a WVU football tailgate that someone claimed was moonshine, but by and large, I
was a moonshine neophyte, unaccustomed to the new fangled ways of 21st
Century distilleries.
Then, I visited the totally legal and fun-loving McLaughlin
Distillery near Sewickley, PA where a tall gray-haired ex-Marine named Kim
McLaughlin made me a warm Apple Pie Moonshine
with whipped cream and a sprinkle of sugar cinnamon for my sipping pleasure—a far
cry from the little brown jug of cartoon lore.
I also enjoyed a Not Your Momma’s Joe Coffee Moonshine
and was tempted by other samples called Hokie
Pokie Moonshine, Cranberry Moonshine,
Pickle Moonshine (yes, it’s flavored with pickle juice), and M.G.R.T.A. Moonshine before realizing
that it might be best to throttle my enthusiasm.
The humble home of McLaughlin Distillery |
There isn’t a lot of signage on the highway to help you find
the little cabin-like building in the woods that houses McLaughlin Distillery. On
the ramp leading into the building is a friendly sign with the greeting:
“Welcome you glorious bastard.” Just beside the door is another simple hand
printed sign that adds gravitas to the whole endeavor: “McLaughlin Distillery
World Headquarters.”
Kim and his products were in great demand on the day we
visited. He greeted each customer and quizzed them about their likes before
recommending and then serving up tastes of his product line. The bottles were
neatly lined up with classy labels and colorful presentations on the big
tasting bar and on a nearby display table.
A veteran dairy farmer from northern New York State, Kim
spent time in Western Pennsylvania working the oil and gas industry. When the
industry slowed, he took advantage of the timing to convert his hobby into a
business and McLaughlin Distillery was
born. The woman at the tasting bar said
Kim worked all the time, welcomed visitors with open arms, and would be happy
to give us a tour explaining, “He’s as Irish as he can be.”
Distiller/Cooper Kim McLaughlin welcomes all visitors |
She was right. Kim happily took us up a couple of steps into
a very rustic and unique work room where he proudly told us what was going on
in four extremely large stainless-steel barrels filled with a bubbling yellow
stew-like concoction.
It was corn mash, fermenting along at a happy clip where a
simple single-celled organism we call yeast was doing all the work in the initial
step toward making Kim’s product. The mash is a mixture of water, corn meal,
sugar, and yeast. Fermentation is a metabolic process that consumes sugar in a
yeast-induced chemical breakdown that creates alcohol. Boiling water started
the mixing process but now, having been cooled at an appropriate rate to
promote proper fermenting, the mixture was left to its own devices. It gave off
a strong pleasant aroma that’s hard to describe along with a mild radiating heat.
The mash |
“That’s alive,” Kim said holding his hand over the contents.
“You can feel the heat coming off it.”
The mash will do its thing for four or five days before it
is strained by Kim’s pal Jim and and loaded up in a towering copper contraption.
That’s the still that separates alcohol from other components. The still heats
the solution, condensing it. Then, alcohol-rich vapors are released as a high
strength liquid that drips from the end of copper tubing at the top. Next, Kim
goes to work adding flavors that provide the color the clear moonshine liquid, depending
upon what is added.
But the moonshine in all its variations, is only part of
what Kim McLaughlin is up to in his rustic little Pennsylvania building. He
also makes bourbon and other whiskeys that require an altogether different
skill. To become bourbon, the alcohol from the distillery must be aged in
special barrels. In McLaughlin’s case, they are barrels made by the distiller
himself from oak wood harvested from his property in upstate New
York. That makes Kim an official “cooper,” someone who makes barrels out of
steamed wood bound together with hoops. The cooper industry once thrived in
North America but not so much any more.
McLaughlin shows off his cooper skills |
Kim showed us how the wood strips are assembled and bound,
lids are carefully carved and fitted, interior portions are charred to give the
aging liquor unique flavor, and a hole made in the side for access. The typical
U.S. bourbon barrel that big time distillers use is 53 gallons. McLaughlin’s
are much smaller and are used only once to age his whiskey products.
The little loft area over McLaughlin’s workshop is lined
with racks of the little barrels and vital information along with a unique name
is scrawled one each round barrel’s top. For example, one barrel
carried the
hand-written name “Shaylee Grace” along with instructions that it should not be opened for 21 years. Shaylee Grace is Kim’s granddaughter.
Still on the left and some aging barrels to the right |
Although he didn’t talk about it during our visit, Kim also
makes vodka and has plans for even more products. He describes his operation as
a small batch craft distillery where each spirit is crafted to perfection by
hand. There aren’t any hulking machines or a big staff. In fact, his web site
boasts that volunteers do a lot of the work in the intricate operations, but
only under his close supervision.
Moonshine’s image has come a long way since that old movie, Thunder Road, when Robert Mitchum drove
a souped-up 1951 Ford sedan with hidden moonshine past inept local police and
rival big-city gangs to speed the product to market. Moonshine’s reputation has
come miles from the stereotype images of grizzled
Appalachian hill people with
toothless smiles and old-fashioned muskets defending their hidden stills
against the interference of pesky Yankee revenuers. Now, it’s a respectable
business and guys like Kim McLaughlin are taking it to a whole new level.
You can find McLaughlin Distillery at 3799 Blackburn Road.
Sewickley, PA or on the web at www.mclaughlindistillery.com.
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